LA MILL COFFEE BOUTIQUE 1636 Silver Lake Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90026 Phone: 323.663.4441 Fax: 323.663.4447 http://www.lamillcoffee.com/
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Hard to say if the fancy decor and higher pricetag is swaying or deterring Silver Lakers, or if the Chemex and Clover-prepared coffee, vegetarian hen egg with crab dish, clam fritters, pork belly panini or damn good citrus currant scones will pull in more non-neighborhood types than locals. But the concept---and this is a whole new world of caffeine consumption---has the curious going in droves. Craig Min and his crew take coffee seriously; ditto Providence chefs Michael Cimarusti, Adrian Vasquez and the kitchen staff. Is this a place to sit for hours with a laptop while nursing cuppa after cuppa? No. Not at all. There's a Starbucks on Glendale Blvd for that. LA MILL is more coffee-infused restaurant than coffeehouse, so adjust expectations accordingly. Stir. Sip. Enjoy.
LA Mill, known for its artisan roasted coffees found in high end restaurants around town, has opened its own coffee boutique serving a light menu of breakfast, sandwiches and soups created by none other than Michael Cimarusti and pastry chef Adrian Vasquez of Providence. Coffee's never tasted so good.
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My main course I can barely talk about. It was one of those dishes that will resonate and I will ruminate over repetitively, like that one meal on that one vacation and it's the whole reason you want to return to that country. The smoked salmon risotto, featuring smoked salmon, crispy salmon skin, sake, and brook trout roe, is ridiculous. It defies familiarity and welcomes you back all at once. The crunch of the salmon skin and the pop of the roe, it is a spectacular contrast of texture on your tongue. Every bite, better than the one before it. And the first bite will knock you to the floor
Dessert. Don't even think about passing. Milk-chocolate coffee panna cotta with coconut ravioli and Bailey's ice cream - this is the food of fairytales. An ample selection accompanies it, but like the Budino at Mozza, I beg you not to leave without trying it. And with signature beverages that include coffee and a jelly doughnut, (strawberry essence layered with donut-infused milk, topped with espresso), liquid tiramisu, and Valrhona Mocha, you'll be kissing your venti whatever good-bye, yesterday.
Between these cranberry and Tiffany blue walls live initiative at it's most delicious. Bring your laptop, bring your toddler, bring your exceptionally discriminating palate. All are welcome, all at once. Who wouldn't drink to that?
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